The Inaugural VFR Flight
Nome, Alaska to Provideniya, Russian Far East
August 9–13, 2003
Pilot's Log and Notes
by Bill Brooks
DeHavilland Beaver pilot and owner
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I had heard of a few pilots from the Alaska Airmen's Association trying to put together the Inaugural Flight on the newly established route. One day in May, 2003, Ron Sheardown and I were sitting in our usual booth in the dining room of the Millennium Hotel on Lake Spenard. I asked Ron, “Do you think I ought to do a thing like that, and would you like to go with me?” He thought for about five seconds and said, “Sure, why not?” That got the ball rolling. The original plan was for us to go over in June, but that time frame didn't work out, so we decided to go on August 9th as scheduled, with the Alaska Airmen's group. Ron couldn't make it on August 9th so Joe Griffith volunteered as co-pilot. Ron loaned us two immersion survival suits and a five-man life raft. We had an initial “try on” in our living room, which was beneficial because they are NOT easy to get into. They are hot and very uncomfortable to fly in, but do give a sense of security when flying over the Bering Sea.
It was fortunate we chose the later date, because paperwork, insurance, pilot's license, visas, passport, radio permits, air worthiness certificate, current annual, serial numbers, tattoos and birthmark registration, current leprosy shots, and certification that we had our own teeth took some time. Well, okay, I exaggerate a bit, but it was an almighty pile of paper. My insurance agent, Mike Adams, at AVEMCO, did find me coverage for DeHavilland Beaver N324WB, but when I first asked about coverage, there was a long pause in the conversation before he asked, “Where? Who would want to go there?” I explained where but couldn't really draw up any enthusiasm or sympathy from him about the “Who'd want to go there” part. To clear things up for him I copied and sent him Russian and Nome charts. Proof of insurance arrived two days before departure.
Back at Control Center, our nurse and mother hen, Mona Holmes of the Alaska Airmen's Assodation, was hard at work with a dozen different interested victims, each with different problems. Mona had her hands full, and, believe me, without her patience, fortitude and just good common sense this flight could never have happened. One of her many phone calls to Russia went something like this: She called Anaydr Center in Anaydr to fix a minor glitch, saying, “Good morning, this is Mona in Alaska.” Before she could explain further he answered, “I am honored. Vhat do you vant, now?” Guess she must have called them a lot.
Of the 13 pilots originally interested in the flight, only seven completed the trip. Our friends in the AN2 were turned down by the Russians because their U.S. registration showed the word “experimental” and was not acceptable. Strange, because the AN2 is Russian and a great work horse. It's big and has an 1820-cubic-inch engine with lots of power. They went as far as Nome with us, camped out and then headed back to Valdez. The 7 that made the trip were:
1. ........ Bowb Gill ........................... Cessna 172 ........................ N88762
2. ........ Bob Freese ........................ Cessna 185 ........................ N185RF
3. ........ Richard Dennis ................... Cessna 182 ........................ N8748T
4. ........ Bill Brewer .......................... Cessna 182 ........................ N33VE
5. ........ Kirk Johnson ...................... Cessna 185 ........................ N2154Q
6. ........ Michael Kosokovich ........... Cessna 185 ........................ N8206V
7. ........ Bill Brooks ......................... DeHavilland Beaver ............ N324WB
Our flight from Anchorage was through Rainy Pass, to McGrath, UnalakJeet, Shaktoolik, across Norton Bay to Elim, over about 30 miles of open water, then West along the coast to Nome. Weather was good VFR. Flight time was 4:45, 500 ± miles. Fuel burn was 20.4 GPH, and we used only one quart of oil, and on that Pratt & Whitney 985 engine, that's exceptionable! A new Capstone GPS had just been installed in the Beaver. Jeff Fondy, captain for ERA Aviation, helped install the entire route as a flight plan. It worked beautifully. That is one great GPS. We were always right on course with the magenta line from station to the next station. In Nome we had reservations at the Aurora Inn, new and well done. Dinner and the briefing meeting was at Fat Freddie's. Good food. Mona had made the reservations and was there with her inevitable raft of paper and more forms.
Next morning, the weather was marginal VFR. Our flight would now take us over the Bering Sea, so we suited up in our survival suits. I know, now, how the astronauts must feel. Getting into those things is a job in itself, but they are great body finders in open water. Getting into the cockpit of the Beaver was another challenging adventure in human adaptability, good thing I'm young and agile. On board, we had a five-man raft as part of our emergency gear. I think we were the only aircraft so equipped.
There had been some numbers “cross threaded” on one of the aircraft. Seems it was the DeHavilland and after Joe and I had gotten into the survival suits, into the cockpit, and airborne, Nome FSS called us to return as our flight plan was not approved. We landed and taxied back to the tower. By the time we got out of the aircraft, out of our survival suits, and into the tower, Miss Mona had contacted Russia again and had it all worked out. Good old Russian flexibility.
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Our route out of Nome was Northwest over Cape Douglas, Port Clarence and look out for a 1358-foot-high Loran antenna there right on the spit. Look out, then across 20 miles of open water to Lost River, York, Tin City, and Wales. There were still snow drifts right at sea level in many areas. Also saw several icebergs drifting south. We were very pleased that we didn't have to check out those survival suits in real conditions.
Wales is the turning point to leave the U.S. The International Date Line runs between the Little and Big Diamede Islands, about where the Chuckchi Sea and the Arctic Ocean meet the Bering Sea. The route heads West to the International reporting point BATNI at N65:43 W169:00, which is just a coordination spot in the air. This checkpoint is where today meets tomorrow and is three time zones West of Anchorage, 21 hours difference. The place on the earth where the day begins is East Cape, Siberia, the easternmost land closest to the international date line. We are instantly, for the first time in our lives, in Russian airspace flying a DeHavilland Beaver. In addition, it may that this is the first time a Beaver has ever been flown in Russian airspace. A lot of firsts, this entire flight being the first group to fly the new U.S. and Russian agreed air corridor, Nome, Alaska to Provideniya, Russia. One thought occurred to me at that point. For a short period of time, the engine and cockpit of the Beaver was 21 hours ahead of the tail. I'm having a Harvard graduate work this out.
Another thought on crossing the date line: we were as far West as you can go and as far East as you can go. Also, before entering Russian airspace we had the opportunity to look into tomorrow. It sure looked a lot like today!
We called LAVRENTIYA (UHML) Tower on 131.1 and reported in their airspace and received clearance to continue. The English was a bit difficult to understand, but Joe Griffith did okay; he speaks some Russian, which was a big help. I'm very glad he was in that right seat.
Then BATNI to KILAK, LAVRENTIYA, and KADAT (which are coordinates only, no letters) to NALID, to MONUD, to PROVIDENIYA (UHMD) and switched to their contact tower 119.3. The airport starts at sea level, goes up a hill and is 5,000 feet ± of gravel. It was in good condition, however.
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On the ground we saw a few helicopters, two of which had blades, and one big chopper. We also saw one IL28 (Beagle) Bomber aircraft parked. Russia has no small planes, as the U.S. does, so no fuel was available. Everyone had to haul their own. I had three containers of 20 gallons each, which gave me enough to get back to Nome.
Our visas were for two weeks but our flight permission was good for 24 hours only. As weather grounded us on the second day, we were then in Russia without permission to fly in Russian airspace. Again, Mona carried the day. From Nome she obtained the necessary permits to allow us to escape on the third day. We made it back to Nome and spent the night. Departed for Anchorage about 09:00 the following morning. Weather south of us turned bad and after looking for a hole for a couple of hours, trying to get into McGrath, couldn't make it so returned to Unalakleet. Made sure the Beaver was well tied down and locked, then departed for Anchorage via PenAir.
Ron Sheardown was kind enough to fly on a DC6 back up to Unalakleet and get the Beaver back to home base. My wife had told me to bring back something from Russia. I did—a bad cold, which prevented me from flying to Unalakleet to retrieve the Beaver. Was very thankful to achieve completion of our trip.
We made new friends here in Alaska and, I hope, new friends in Provideniya. For one of the gifts I took over two dozen American Dictionaries and presented them to the school teacher in Provideniya. They had the Constitution of the United States and the Declaration of Independence printed in the back of the book. The teacher was visibly moved; she indicated that no one had ever given her anything like this before.
The actual flying was a bit of an adventure. Seems there is always weather and other problems, but you can expect that also. Hit the check point and be on time. Conversation is a little bit iffy. Although English is the universal language on airways, understanding just what is said and its true meaning does sometimes get garbled. Captains on our international flights report similar problems.
Our friend, Jim O'Mera and his wife, Kim, of Greatland Laser gave each of the pilots one of his Rescue Laser Flare units. Their signal is good up to 20 miles and can send laser signals to rescue personnel. They are of value to anyone lost under any circumstances.
Would I go again? Well, give me a couple of days to think about that.
